First, based on the tree's potential, focus on two key aspects: 1. The trunk roughness is not yet developed, and the orchard is still in its early tree-building phase. During the first winter after planting, pruning should be done to encourage trunk development. The tree height should be around 1.5 meters, with a trunk diameter of about 2.5 cm at 50 cm above the ground. Lateral branches should carry approximately 7 kg of fruit, with about 7 branches left per tree. If the trunk reaches 2 meters in height, the base should be 1 meter above the ground, with horizontal branches around 3 cm in diameter, and knots no longer than 50 cm. For flower buds, it's best to use short, strong shoots. If the sapling is shorter than 50 cm, it's better to allow longer shoots (50-70 cm) for balanced fruit load. All peach branches should droop downward at a 45-degree angle, directing the tree’s energy to the base, which helps stimulate the growth of lower branches and ensures that fruits on the front of the branches can stand upright. Otherwise, the peaches may fall or become too dense, causing issues during summer. Trees with trunks less than 1.5 meters are weak, leading to poor flower bud quality, and the second-tier branches tend to be sparse. In such cases, trees with trunks under 40 cm in diameter should not be pruned, and no fruit should be allowed within 30 cm of the main trunk to prevent bending and damage to the trunk. This approach ensures a balanced load and maintains the growth of new shoots.

Second, when the trunk reaches 1.5 meters in height and has thick branches, the tree is entering its mature phase. At this point, the expected yield can be set at around 50 pounds. The yield per mu (about 667 square meters) should remain stable, with high-quality peaches reaching around 10,000 pounds. The length of the branches should be maintained between 30 and 50 cm for optimal fruiting.

Third, nutrient supply must be managed according to the tree's needs. When planting, balance the use of grass or rapeseed as a cover crop, and apply high-quality amino acids directly to the trunk every 15–20 days, about 10 times a year. Combine this with foliar sprays using 300 times diluted amino acids, and also apply them to the soil. Using a mix of organic, inorganic, and biological fertilizers will help the tree accumulate nutrients effectively, improving both yield and fruit quality.

Fourth, water management is crucial. Water according to the tree's needs during critical periods. Winter watering supports nutrient absorption, frost resistance, and flower bud differentiation, as well as fruit setting and early fruit development. No water or fertilizer should be given before flowering. Watering in June helps increase drought resistance and prevents excessive fruit drop and sunburn. This is also the time when the peach tips stop growing, the young fruit expands rapidly, and new roots develop significantly. This period is particularly important for nutrient uptake. Avoid heavy watering one month before harvest, as it reduces fruit flavor and dilutes sugar content. Based on long-term observations from the Loess Plateau, only a few key irrigation events are needed annually, ensuring steady tree growth without overwatering (only if grass is actively growing).

Fifth, maintaining balance between the upper and lower parts of the tree is essential. First, assess the amount of new growth. If more than 60% of the new shoots cannot be controlled by late June, reduce water and fertilizer, cut back grass, and apply amino acids to the trunk. Increase artificial branching and dwarfing techniques to control growth and ensure a balanced distribution of resources. Avoid excessive water or fertilizer, forced pruning, or overly sparse tree structures, as these can lead to weak or stunted growth. Second, properly managing the shape of peach trees is vital. Peach trees grow vigorously and can produce multiple flushes of growth each year, with strong apical dominance. To maintain balance, train a sharp, thick trunk with a small top and a large base. The upper growth points (including the shoot tips and buds) should be limited, while the lower ones should be encouraged. Once the tree structure is established and meets these standards, annual maintenance and investment will be significantly reduced.

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